Snow Bike Lantern

snowy woods

This was actually my first time riding in the snow, but it was quite fine. I've been a little lazy in getting up early enough to commute by bike into work. I decided to course the trails on Christmas Eve. Temperatures was around 11F or so.  Merino thermals, denim overalls,  key shirt, wool sweater, amana wool scarf, wool earflap cap, wool gloves, and the waxed pointer chore coat.  Hiking boots, wool socks.  Stayed plenty warm.   

The Felt Cafe3 makes a pretty good snow bike. Nexus 3 IGH with coaster brake, keeps the drivetrain closed up and simple, no packing snow into derailleurs.  The other plus, is the aluminum frame sidesteps corrosion concerns.    One nice thing about living on the frigid plains, is that when we do get snow, it is dry and powdery, while you do get thick drifts, it generally is only lightly covering regular flat surfaces, and consequently does not get too deep.  With close fitting fenders, V brakes, and tight fits at the seat and chain-stays, this bike would not well tolerate a thick wet lake-effect snow.   Aluminum also makes it easy to portage over deep drifts. Cyclo-cross style.   This would be awkward with the Flying Pigeon, or all but impossible with the Kruisframe. 

Once I got off the streets and onto the trail, I turned off all the blinkies, Cygolight, and lit my dietz kerosine lantern. This is one of the cold-blast models and produces a suprising amount of light. It is easy to grip both the lamp and the handlebars with enough 'give' to prevent the lamp from being overly-jostled. 

I then cycled the upper length of the trail, making the rounds, lighting the snowy woods, and the crunch of snow underneath the tires.  Very fun!   Hopefully everyone is having a good holiday season! 

Persistence of Pigeon

Just sort of touching base, but I continue to ride my PA-02 Flying Pigeon more than my other bicycles, and the more I do, the more I am aware of  how oddly "right" it feels.  I was considering putting on a three speed IGH hub in the back, but now I'm not so sure. According to Sheldon Brown's Gear inch calculator, I'm running around 56" and basically I climb on the bike and go.  My daily commute features a few gradual hills, and one steep 20% grade climb 50 feet up onto a former railroad embankment.   I'm not out of the seat for this.

Sunflowers from the backyard - back in September. Actually this is kind of neat:   They were last planted three years ago.  Now the chipmunks have them coming up all over the place. 

Admittedly I top out at a pokey 13mph, at a comfortable spin, but on the miles of crushed limestone trails, and suburban back streets this speed feels entirely fine.  The responsiveness of the single speed drive train is terrific. Or, maybe it just feels natural?   In comparison, the Nexus Inter 3 on my Felt Cafe, and Nexus 8 on my Workcycles/Azor Kruisframe feel lethargic, disconnected and full of friction.

When I got the Pigeon, I repacked the wheel bearings out of curiosity of the process when I was assembling, it, and waiting for other parts to arrive. I also later upgraded to the 20 tooth 3 pawl BMX freewheel.  Now the wheel is tight in the stays and on the bearings, no slop - but I can spin it with one stroke by hand, and it keeps going for almost a minute Neither of my IGH bikes can do this.

There is some sort of mystic British Raleigh Perfection here even when executed as a Chinese knockoff.

Not that the Pigeon is entirely trouble free - Yesterday evening, before my ride home I checked the crank tightness, and found that the cotter on one was  a bit loose and notchy. (I had dismissed it as the slightly crummy MKS 3000 pedals)   I rode it home carefully and then hammered the cotter in with a few good whacks, seating it further and tightened the cotter nut. Problem solved.  Also, I finally found 5mm hex head screws to replace the nearly stripped originals for the rod-brake clips at the local hardware store.

So I'm thinking about simplifying the Kruisframe a good bit, maybe try the very efficient SRAM automatix 2 speed hub on it, strip the bike down a little bit.

It is interesting, how perceptions change with experience.  I was thinking about getting a 10 speed-ish road bike next year, possibly to do Ragbrai with, and then a few months later, I was thinking about just 3 speeding it with a front derailleur and Paul Melvin tensioner...     now I'm realizing that I can just go all day on a single speed.

Cheap and made in America Shell Coat

I've mentioned this in a few other postings, and with the weather finally getting down into the 30s, I figure it is time to address my DIY shell coat.  

This is pretty simple really.  

Take one Pointer Brand Chore Coat.  Which is a made in the USA simple single layer cotton denim coat, with some pockets. You could probably substitute with any other similar cotton garment. 

Then take one bar of Otter Wax, waterproofing wax. 

Apply wax to the coat liberally, on a concrete patio, on a warm summer day.  Maybe when you're done just toss it in a old pillow-case and run it around in the dryer on low. Or let it be warmed by the sun some more. 

The result is an impressively smelly, waxy cotton chore coat. It also outright blocks wind from penetrating, and it is not overly bulky. The water resistance isn't spectacular. It keeps light stuff at bay. Having a wool layer on underneath will limit soak-through. 

On last Friday's morning commute, it was 34, and I wore a wool guide shirt, and wool sweater, and the wind was just coming right through.  I warmed up after the first mile, but it was kind of unpleasant all the way to work. That evening, I rode home after dark, and it was back down to 34, with a gusty breeze.  This time I wore the chore coat out. The wind did not get through the coat at all, and I quickly became nice and toasty, and had a tremendously great ride home.

 I think, as long as I'm actively biking, with two wool layers on underneath, I should be good down into the tens or so. 

When this coat isn't in use, it is strapped to the top of  my Carradice or Zimbale bags. It does make a nice impromptu ground cloth, for maintenance, or napping on, etc. 

Near miss venting.

Maybe I should've gone after her, yelled at her or something. Stupid lady in her minivan turning oncoming in front of me, just so she could get to her freaking parking spot at Target.  

I was fine, no contact was made, but it was disconcerting. I was commuting home on the Flying Pigeon when it happened. I had a light on.  I was doing everything right, yet still nearly got hit because of a stupid self important driver.

The rod brakes on the Pigeon aren't bad, but they're still  less effective than a coaster or good caliper brakes, I nailed them hard as I decelerated and though they're fine when I'm using them to modulate my speed, they seem to lack a little bit for panic stopping because of stupid drivers.   Might be time to rebuild the rear wheel around a coaster brake.

Carry and Portage / 3 Saddle Bags Poorly and Subjectively Reviewed

from left to right,  Sackville Saddlesack Small,  Carradice College, Zimbale 7 Liter

During my first few months as a new bike commuter, I carried my junk in a backpack, which while admittedly was a nice backpack (Osprey Halo) left alot to be desired as far as back-ventilation goes. Riding on warm summer days equaled sweaty results. Picking up some groceries on the way home? Plastic bags dangling from the handlebars or  haphazardly tied to the rear rack.

This continued on for half a year, until I had changed my Felt Cafe's stock saddle out for an easier-riding Selle An Atomica- and I noticed that it had bag loops. "Bag loops. Hmm. You can attatch a saddle bag to those,"  went my very slow mental process.  "Oh, maybe I should get a bag..."

First up, the Rivendell Sackville SaddleSack (Small)

It is hard to find anything wrong with this bag- out of the three of them, it is the easiest to open, load and close. The bag hangs on the level from  the saddle loops which are located halfway along its length, unlike the 'British' style bags, which lean and tip backwards.  The bag flap is secured by a single strap, that is routed through a integral wooden dowel, this applies closing pressure over the entire flap. There is also an inner cargo flap that further secures your contents. 

SaddleSack open, cargo cover flap pulled back, exposing corroplast load floor. 

The single main compartment is big enough for some carry-out food, cable lock, and my tool kit which is in a klein pouch. The overall volume is enough and no more.  

 The strap leather seems a little raggy, but it after a spring and summer of use, they aren't any worse for wear and holding fast.  The construction of the bag itself is fantastic-superb- the flap's reflective strip adds extra visibility, while looking integrated into the design, which is more than I can say for the diamond and triangle reflective patches on the other two bags.  Metal hardware is brass, the buckles are finished with smooth edges. 

The Sackville is my favorite bag to deal with on a commuting basis.  It gets compliments from the LBS folks, from Lycra-types, from recumbent tricycle riders, - pretty much everyone.  

  

Carradice College

Next up, Carradice College. 

The Carradice is paired with my Azor/Workcycles Kruisframe bike.  I had been reading up on Brit-Dutch cycling before I made the order,  and a Carradice seemed to be the way to go, as far as keeping the theme rolling. I snagged this College bag from VeloFred.com for a modestly discounted price. (particularly compared to the cost of the Carradice Camper)  The College is simply the Camper, without the Long-flap or the side-pouches.  The interior of this bag is huge. I did bring home a complete rotissere chicken dinner for two in it at one point, and this maybe half filled the bag. On a single day of Ragbrai-  It held 6 liters of bottled water and assorted sundries.  Other riders kept offering me water, (no visible bottle cages) but I'd point at the bag and said that I had all I needed.   

Construction is waterproof cotton duck, hangs from the saddle  bag loops with chrome-white leather straps that are in turn secured to a dowell.  There is a cargo drawstring, and a nylon rain-cover.  The flap has slotted leather points for securing a rain-tarp or poncho. (Additional straps sold separately)  I use this as intended for keeping my waxed-cotton chore coat. Build quality is described as serviceable. I felt a little let down actually, many of the straps had incompletely punched buckle holes, requiring further reaming, some of the leather rivets were only half-engaged and the stitching wandered in spots (but always secure). Buckle hardware is stamped metal, rough-edged. The chromed leather itself is good.    The flap has an attachment loop for securing a bicycle tail-lamp but it sits so high, that I am finding it pretty much useless.  There is also an extraneous metal and leather Carradice name-plate which I removed. Too gaudy. 

I'd call my interaction with this bag 'unremarkable' . I'll frequently only deal with one of the buckles, reaching in under the flap and pulling out what I need, based on touch.  It gets the job done. 

Zimbale 7 Liter

Finally, Zimbale 7 liter.
Zimbale is a South Korean shop that has come up with a line of traditional bicycle bags on the English pattern, and a competitor to Carradice.  Seeing as I already had a Carradice, I decided to try the Zimbale. I ordered the 7 liter, which would complement my Raleigh-Roadster-Ripoff Flying Pigeon PA-02.

Wow. The build and material quality should be called "Luxury". Straight stitching, great leather, loops for a shoulder strap, metal poncho/tarp lashdown loops, and a nice plaid flap liner, not a single loose thread anywhere. The buckle hardware is either bronze or antiqued-brass, and smoothly finished.

I've spent the least time using this bag. Unlike the other two bags, it uses quick-release slot and post tabs, which are further adjusted by conventional buckles. These are holding securely, although it is a little bit of a pain in the rear to separately adjust these buckles if your cargo is a little larger than normal. Just adds another step to what would be a normal strap and buckle workflow. I might replace these closures with some curb-strap derived belt and buckle- when I can work up the energy.   There is a tail-light attachment loop that works well with a Blackburn Flea blinkie.

Side pockets hold spare tubes, and the inside can accommodate a modest amount of supplies, probably not a rotisserie chicken, but two cans of lager, tool kit, a bag lunch, cable lock, extra socks, etc.  I can lash my chore coat on top.  It lacks the broad uninterrupted shelf of the Sackville, or the super-capacity of the Carradice,  but for a light day-outing - Good Enough.



In Review:
As a light commuter:  Sackville SaddleSack all the way- it is just so dang effortless.   Supplies for a 60 mile day? Carradice College.   Zimbale? A few essentials, somewhat difficult.  

Grand Weekend, Planes, Pigeons.

 

PA-02 Pigeon and Travel-Air 6000

Wow, the Pigeon received overwhelming attention at the antique airplane fly-in.  More attention than say, the more deserving airplanes. I was accosted four or five times on friendly terms "I've been looking for you, I want to ask you about..."    or "Does the light come with it?"    I pedaled about, and it was a great way to get up and down the rows of planes or to and from my campsite.  The schwalbe delta cruisers made easy work of the grass turf.  I probably should've stayed a little longer, but was somewhat quickly home-sick and: bugs.
Previously I've camped in a KampRite Tent-Cot, which I can't recommend enough.  This time, with the Pigeon filling up most of my hatchback, I decided to use my MountainSmith 2 person tent.   Well, it seemingly attracted ants and bugs like there was no tommorrow. I would turn on the light and look up, and see 300 ants crawling between the tent proper and the rain fly. A proverbial and psychologically damaging sword of formicidae hanging over my head. Even when I applied citronella to the tie-downs.   Between that and the weather, I went home early.  I'm going to have nightmares about that.

A day later after getting home, I followed up  Friday and Saturday's riding with the annual ride of the local Trail Sponsorship Committee, and then back up the CVNT trail to home, making for 20 more miles, and the longest single ride for the Pigeon.

The Pigeon held up strongly with it's British roadster heritage. Single speed and 53 or so gear inches, it has an easy going Pepe-le-Pew sort of pacing that has me covering plenty of ground with even effort.  I did get a little nervous during the group ride, as I was hemmed in, and the rod brakes don't quite stop as fast as everyone else.  Also, with such a thick crowd of varying skill levels, I had no problem wearing a helmet. As much to protect myself from accidents caused by my fellow bikers.

Dagnabit Dangit Nabit.

About two miles before I reached home, I got my first bicycle flat. Well, I pulled off in a shady spot, flipped the bike, and practiced what I've only seen instructed. Located the hole, rather an almost knife like slit in the tube with no visible penetration in the tire, or anything stuck in the tire.   I used one of the Park Super Patches,  but it let go, or  the slit-cut expanded after half a mile or so further. I noticed that the new rim-tape I purchased from the LBS was not covering the entire inside of the rim, also that there were a few sharp-seeming machining spots. Probably the issue.  Well I'll pull the wheel again and tape the rim with some 24mm tape, and throw on a new tube.

All in all a good labor-day weekend.

Postretrogression

I've been further at work on the Flying Pigeon, I finally got around to having the still pretty wobbly wheels trued up at my LBS. The shop mechanic looked at my wheels for about thirty seconds, spinning them on the truing rig, then he said to me "How do you stop on these things?" I explained to him how Westwood Rims are designed for rod brakes, and the brake pads make contact up against the inner surface of the rim.




Two days later, I had my wheels, put some rim tape on them, and then went about trying to mount the new Schwalbe cream colored Delta Cruiser tyres onto the
wheels. I seemed to have great difficulty with this, after half an hour, I went and consulted with the bicycle oracle (Sheldon Brown's website)- and that is when dear friends, I learned that there was a difference between 700C and 700B, which classic roadsters use. About 10mm worth of difference. Well that had me waiting another week for a special order of Schwalbes to ship direct from Schwalbe USA. That said, I can save the 700Cs for either the Felt Cafe, or for a future bicycle. (I'm considering a Surly Cross-Check). The new Schwalbes roll great, tremendously improving how the bicycle handles. I highly reccomend them.

The new tyres came, and I put them on with ease. New tubes, then did some paint work, as I really did not care all that much for the extensive decaling the bicycle came with. Some of it was even horribly applied, such as on the chaincase- "Made in TiaSQUIGGLE" So I scuffed up the clear coat over the offending decals with a sanding block, masked what I wanted to protect from overspray, and used some Krylon Appliance Epoxy-Black spraypaint. This stuff seems almost indistinguishable from the stock paint in tone and gloss, and has made me quite happy with the toned down looks.

I then spent an extra night or two adding some twine and shellack, tapering the handlebars in front of the grips, and adding a protective wrapping along the top-tube, where it had a habit of getting nicked from collision with the brake-levers.

The final touch, was adding some retro-lighting, in this case a reproduction oil-lamp from Rideable Bicycle Replicas. This is the only current production oil lamp I can find, and for the price is a pretty good deal if you're just dying for a light. The build-quality is so/so, and I had to reverse the side-glass, as it had red on the right, and green on the left, which might have been okay if it was a tail light, but standard position lights for ships, planes, traines have green on the right and red on the left. It does work though, although seems to seal poorly between the kero/oil tank and the burner. I might gasket this with some innertube rubber. A further improvement might be to add a sheet metal reflector internally. But oh my gosh, when it is lit, it is so cool. I got lots of attention on the dusk ride home I made with it tonight. Drivers smiling and such. It stayed lit in some pretty strong winds, with moderate speeds. I have it mounted to the fork-light mount via an old bracket adapter. It does some with a headset bracket as an option.




These little box-style lights seem to be thin on the ground- original items that is. I'm not too suprised though, given the light stamped construction and the high heat gradients, they appear to corrode/warp into unserviceability. A check on Ebay will show a dozen or two good looking carbide lamps, and just a handfull of the black box lamps all ragged looking, and going for more than the ornate carbides! Looking over the construction, it gets me wondering about how hard it would be to make my own. A Niche market to be sure!